MAZDA MX5 NBFL RESTORATION & V6 CONVERSION

  I managed to pick up a washer fluid bottle relocation tank when I first got the MX5 for £15.  After carrying out some research it appears to be from 'Universal Intercoolers'. It comes in a kit which basically makes this whole post pointless, but I got it second hand as just the relocation tank.  The original kit is illustrated below.  It includes a pump, wiring, hose line, and the relocation tank. If you look at the tank  on the bottom left corner, you can see the fitting for the hose to push onto. This means the pump does not mount to the tank and requires additional mounting.  My idea is to remove the nib and replace with a hole and grommet for the OEM washer bottle pump.  Firstly, I cut the nib off with a hacksaw. As you can see in the picture, it sits pretty close to the corner, if i were to drill the original hole position it would have no wall thickness left for a grommet. Basically, I center punched more to the left and up from that hole so that when I drill the hole f

  This guide will show you how to install a DaveFAB jacking bar to your NB MX5! For the NA's, the unit simply replaces the stock towing eyes and bolts as normal. However, on the NB you have to drill your own holes and use nuts and washers to mount the bar. Not a hard install but can be daunting if you've never seen it done before!  Firstly, mock up the jacking bar against the chassis legs and ensure there is nothing getting in the way of it sitting flush. Then mark the holes with a marker so you know where to drill! The jacking bar appears to want to share some of the crash bar bolts. However, they done line up and all I can think is that they are there for extra fasteners if need be.  Once the hole positions are marked, center punch then drill to accommodate the M10 bolts. I drilled mine to 10.6mm to allow for 'wiggle room'.  I used a cutting lubricant to keep the drill bit cool and aid the drilling.  The top holes are a real PITA!! A angled drill will make this less o

  This guide will show you how I turned my 17 year old fuel tank into one that looked a day old! To get access to the fuel tank, you must first drop the rear subframe and all the other bits that come with that task (guide coming soon).  Once the subframe assembly is out of the way, the fuel tank can be removed!  Remove the fuel filler tube and return from within the boot.  Disconnect fuel pump electronics and fittings from within the cabin (hidden under parcel shelf). Not necessary for everyone, remove fuel filter with fuel lines.  4 Bolts hold the fuel tank to the chassis, the fuel tank can now be removed! Once the tank is removed, strip it to the bare fuel tank. This includes removing fuel pump, roll-over valve, rubber mounting tabs, foam strip, and the probably very rusty heat shield. You'll probably snap a few bolts removing the heat shield, these can be easily drilled out once it is off or leave them flush and pretend they were never there! I will not be utilizing the heat shi